They heightened the naïf bent of the collection. After studying at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London he moved to Milan where he. Born in 1983, Arthur Arbesser grew up in Vienna. And it is precisely this grace and freshness that shines through in his rug and textile collection for Wittmann. Lookbook imagery styled and shot by the ICTM collective were collages of models’ figurines glued to details of domestic environments. In his fashion work, Arbesser has always striven to achieve a certain lightness. He plied a similar playful inventiveness in manipulating constructions, for draped metallic tops and midi frocks. Arthur Arbesser rediscovered his great-great-grandfather's landscape paintings and brought them in fashion for fall 2023. They were juxtaposed to childlike prints of crackled tissue paper and of the traces left by sponge stamps, as if they were the result of a toddlers’ creativity workshop, Arbesser said. ![]() She was wearing a sheer, deep-cut lacy dress in black and white, a color theme carried out through most. ![]() The landscapes graced shirtdresses, tunics, and balloon skirts, as well as light knit underpinnings layered beneath spaghetti dresses with pleated skirts in see-through organza that evoked a certain sensual flair. Backstage, Arthur Arbesser was answering questions in a T-shirt with a watercolor kitty. His fall collection hinged on paintings by his great-great-grandfather Hermann von Koenigsbrunn, who would follow botanists and biologists on expeditions across Egypt, Sri Lanka and Greece in the 1850s. The designer is as blunt and practical about his work life as he is about clothing, having carved out an aesthetic that stands somewhere between demure bourgeois and artily off-kilter. This writer can attest to that.“I’m not an edgy or cool designer, I know it and I’m totally fine with that,” said Arthur Arbesser at his Milan atelier, which he opened Sunday for the first time to unveil his fall collection. If the naive cat motif on a pair of overalls and a raincoat won’t be for everyone, the lively floral that appeared on a flirty little dress, a pantsuit, and a long-sleeved T-shirt gown will find admirers well past their teenage years. But the stars were illustrator Agathe Singer’s lovely prints. The domestic environment sounds passé as a theme now that social life is back. A paper-thin technical nylon coat and matching pants brought a sleek, athletic edge to the collection that felt genuine. Arthur Arbesser RTW Spring 2023 Courtesy of Driu Crilly&Tiago Ma. At 33, he’s fairly youthful himself he gets how young women want to dress. It’s a tribute to Arbesser’s sensitive spirit, and that of his collaborators, that it didn’t. The pubescent edge-of-innocence thing can go dreadfully wrong. The models’ hair was scraped carelessly to the side with bobby pins, and they wore white anklets with both their patent slingbacks and their Nikes. It was a fact Arbesser opted to accentuate by recruiting his friend, the composer and musician Jordan Hunt, to play live music, and by installing in the middle of the room a giant Balthus cat and a young woman who played the artist’s model on a low velvet chair.īalthus’s favorite subjects were adolescent girls, and Arbesser used the famous painter’s oeuvre as a framework. ![]() Last Friday, he presented his first collection for the Italian sportswear company Iceberg, and today, an hour before his longtime former employer Giorgio Armani put on his own show, Arbesser took his young eponymous brand to the runway for the first time. It’s been a big week for Arthur Arbesser, one of Milan’s new generation of designers.
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